Grow a lovely bouquet of – potatoes? By Marion Waters

Potatoes are a highly nutritious and versatile vegetable that can be grown in any garden or in pots. They are a fairly simple crop to plant - just plop a seed potato in a hole and cover it up. No need to work the soil or even amend it too much. But even with the simplest of crops, there are ways to enhance quality and yields.

The potato (Solanum tuberosum) is a member of the nightshade family which includes tomatoes, eggplants, and peppers. Solanums thrive in acidic soil, so do not add lime where you intend to plant potatoes. Potatoes are tolerant of cool soils and moderate frost. Plant them when the soil temperature is 6 degrees C which in our area is well into March or early April.

One way to maximize success is by chitting your seed potatoes. You can use them whole or cut into pieces as long as there are at least two or three good eyes on each piece. Place the potatoes ‘eyes side up’ in egg cartons in a sunny window or greenhouse to allow them time to dry before planting and help prevent the cut edges from rotting. Once the eyes start sprouting, nick off all but two or three so the energy in the seed potato builds fewer and stronger stalks. Chit your potatoes a couple of weeks before you intend to plant. Minimize pest and disease problems by planting your potatoes in a different location each year. Pull up and disposing of any volunteers from previous crops.

Plant seed potatoes about 10 cm deep. Allow 30 cm between plants and about 60 cm between rows. When the plants begin to grow, hoe more soil up against the stems. This is called hilling or earthing-up and encourages more tubers to develop. Hilling also ensures that developing tubers are not exposed to the sun, which causes them to produce chlorophyll and turn the potato surfaces a greenish colour. The green area can be toxic and cause stomach upset.

Hilling need only be done two or three times, beginning when shoots are about 20 cm high and ending as soon as blossoms appear. Straw can be used in place of soil or use a mixture of both. Potatoes grow in just about any soil but they prefer well-drained loamy or sandy soils. Incorporating compost mulch into the soil will add nutrients and help retain moisture.

Newly planted potatoes do not require any watering for several weeks. The seed tuber supplies the budding stalks with everything they need. Once the stalks are several cm high, then watering at the base of the plant is recommended. Potatoes (like tomatoes) do not like water on their leaves and stalks because the dampness makes them vulnerable to blights or other fungal diseases. During dry weather, water potatoes deeply (about 30 cm) two or three times per week.

Once your early varieties flower, begin harvesting your delicious new potatoes. For your main crops, once the stalks look like they are dying, it’s time to get the potatoes out of the ground. Leave them to sit on top of the soil to dry out for a day or two to toughen the peel if you are intending to store them. Do not wash potatoes before storage, since wet potatoes decay easily. Store in a cool dry dark place for optimum results.

Seed potatoes come in a variety of sizes, shapes, and colours (inside and out!) Whatever you choose for your “bouquet”, be sure to plant some earlier varieties to use as soon as they are harvested such as Warba. Stretch out your harvest by planting some mid-season varieties in April such as Chieftain and Yukon Gold. The later maturing varieties such as Russets and Kennebec are your “main crops” and are planted in late April or early May.

(Courtesy of Campbell River Mirror)

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This following question was asked by one of our readers. Many thanks to Milner Gardens & Woodland’s Gardening Advice line (a partnership between Vancouver Island University’s Milner Gardens & Woodland and the Vancouver Island Master Gardeners Association) for the following response:

Q: Do cut potatoes yield about the same as whole chitted potatoes, assuming they are about the same size? Does the act of cutting them slow them down to make a difference by summer’s end? What fertilizer, if any should I use? I understand manure is not recommended for potatoes

A: Cutting portions of potatoes is a way to make your seed potatoes go farther. Instead of having one plant per potato, you can grow two or more plants to one potato, increasing your crop as well as reducing costs. To make a stronger potato plant, break off most of the eyes and leave two or three strong ones facing upwards as you plant them. Whether those eyes are on a whole potato or a portion should not make any difference to the production of potatoes.

Chitting potatoes is the practice of encouraging the tuber to produce strong, short, stubby green shoots before planting. The potatoes begin to sprout before being planted in the soil. Chitting helps a crop mature more quickly after planting. Although, let’s not forget that the soil temperature when you finally plant your potatoes is what makes the most difference. Your soil should be at least 45 degrees before planting.

Potatoes should not be planted while wet as this can encourage diseases, so cutting your seed potatoes may delay planting because you must leave the potato pieces to dry out for a couple of weeks. However, if you start the process two weeks before you intend to plant, all things should be equal. This also allows time for the potatoes to chit while they are drying.

Work in well-rotted compost into the top couple of inches of soil before you plant. Growing potatoes in un-composted organic matter can cause potato skins to scab. Adding too much fertilizer can also encourage scab. Many manures may be too high in nitrogen for potatoes. Chicken manure tends to raise the pH in soil and potatoes like slightly acidic soil. Use a fertilizer that has equal amounts of phosphate and potassium and half the amount of nitrogen, although using a balanced 10-10-10 for the initial application also shows success.

We hope that helps! Here are a couple of helpful websites to check out.

extension.oregonstate.edu/imported-publication/potatoes

Happy gardening,

Marion and Jane, Vancouver Island Master Gardeners

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